THE RIGHT STUFF...AND A BIT OF THE WRONG STUFF, TOO. FOR 50 YEARS, LITTLE ...

HIS WIFE LEFT HIM, TAKING THE SILVER AND THE POPOVER PANS. AND Everything else, too.

But after two days' hard shopping at Georgetown's Little Caledonia, the dapper gentleman of about 60 had filled 20 shopping bags with enough necessities and niceties to civilize his new bachelor digs. There were lacquered English serving trays, napkin rings shaped like elephants and birds, linen napkins and china place settings for two -- in case of a guest. Then there was the cabbage-shaped soup tureen, the wrought-iron floor lamp, the garden umbrella, two mailboxes, measuring cups, an assortment of coffee-making paraphernalia and oyster plates.

And, of course, popover pans. Four of them.

Everything to make a place look as if the family's lived there for generations. One-stop shopping, except for ancestral portraits, a four-poster bed and dog hair to sprinkle on the furniture to give it that lived-in look.

Park your labrador at the curb -- this is where Old Money shops. In fact, they've been hoofing it over to Wisconsin Avenue for 50 years (or maybe longer, but more about that later).

There's nothing trendy or futuristic at Little Caledonia. Think doilies, place cards, ceramic monkeys, finials (to top off lamps, of course), handmade lamp shades and Belgian linen. And don't let the size of the place, the rabbit warren of 13 claustrophobic rooms fool you.

Little Caledonia must stock enough soup tureens to serve gazpacho to everyone at RFK Stadium at the height of Redskins season. And enough wastebaskets to outfit every office at the Pentagon, although some generals might squawk at the idea of tossing their top-secret memos in a container with a duck or a panda on it.

Walking into Little Caledonia is like entering Charles Dickens' Old Curiosity Shop. The rooms are laden with more than 60,000 affordable knickknacks, stockrooms bulge with picture frames and mirrors, with hard-to-find jam pots and cachepots. Even the bathroom is jammed with silk flowers and cases of the oh-so-popular Lov Last cold-water wash.

There's the pretty, the cute and the kitschy. There's the Right Stuff and a bit of the wrong stuff, too. But come on -- isn't every home a mix of both? OPENED IN THE LATE 1930s when Georgetown was mainly a wild, wild west of saloons, Little Caledonia has stuck it out in good times and in bad, faithfully serving up its Waspy look to generations of Washington's educated consumers.

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